Political Tsunami and Mardi Gras

It's before 5 am, and both of us are up. Joy has a day shift today - thursday the first day of the weekend here. The first prayer call of the day is the sound in the air. It is still dark. With our first coffee we sit on the balcony, viewing the lights in the distant sky of planes coming in to land at the Jeddah International Airport.
The city lights still stretch out before us as dawn is just starting. Today the forecast is for 31 deg C and sunny - nothing new for this spring day. The air at this time of the morning is still cool with the breeze.

Our thoughts wander off to the ongoing unrest in the region, although all is calm in the Magic Kingdom.
We are surrounded by turmoil - Libya in the far west, Tunisia and Egypt fortunately now more settled after starting this viral like spread of political dissent in the region. The ongoing conflict of Israel and Palestine in the north, with the limited unrest in Jordan, but increasing issues in Syria. On the Arabian Peninsula there are the increasing problems in Yemen and Bahrain, Oman now just grumbling along. Qatar, the UAE and Saudi Arabia so far are quiet. History is unfolding before our eyes. This was not on our list of expectations when we planned this "tour of duty" or later life work adventure. But we are safe and ok, despite what one may imagine from watching CNN, BBC or Aljazeera news stations.

Yemen and Bahrain are clearly closer to "home" as both have borders with Saudi Arabia.
Yemen is the poorest country on the Arabian Peninsula, marked by tribal allegiances, and a long time dictator/president. It has been a smoldering powder keg for some time, now ignited by the spreading voices of the younger generation throughout the region.
Bahrain is somewhat different. It is an island nation state in the Gulf joined to Saudi Arabia by a land bridge. It is open to Western influences and has been a popular weekend destination for people from the Kingdom. It is also where I proposed to Joy many years ago now. Recently it was to be the location of one of the auto Grand Prix events on the world circuit, but the event was cancelled due to the recent increasing unrest. The country is not poor, unlike most of the other countries with uprisings in the region. The Royal Family has ties with the Royal Family in the Kingdom here. That in itself is an important fact leading to the invitation of troops from the Kingdom here to try to limit the unrest there. The unrest however has political/religious roots, not coming from poverty as has been the case in other locations. It is important at this time to point out that Islam has two major sects - Sunni and Shia.  Iran across the Gulf from Bahrain is Shia.  Saudi Arabia is predominantly Sunni. The Royal Family in Bahrain is Sunni, but the majority of its population, like its close neighbor Iran is Shia. Without getting into regional and national politics I believe you can see where this is going.

Now what about the Magic Kingdom, where we presently reside? How is the government coping when surrounded by virulent unrest? Fortunately the Kingdom is a very rich country, the major economic power in the Middle East. Politically it has a moderating influence in the region. It also sits on the largest oil reserves in the world and is a major supplier of this black gold. Therefore the west, as well as these two expats, best hope that the tsunami of unrest stops at its borders.

Here there have been a number of political and economic moves, resulting from the concerns over the surrounding political tsunami. Yesterday there was a special edition of the Arab News, the major local English language newspaper. I will share some items from that issue as they show one "window" of what is viewed and what is being done in an attempt to stem the tide. I apologize ahead of time for the quality of "photos of the pages" - I have essentially used the "photos" as props.

               The King on the front cover with the Kingdom Tower in Riyadh in the background.

As part of this special supplement there is the published list of "Royal Decrees" from the King that have just been announced. The Kingdom has "decreed" about $100 billion in benefits to the country and its citizens!!
I am not sure whether any other country in the world would be able to drop that chunk of change?! Remember also that there is no income tax in this country. That's a lot of barrels of black gold.

No you cannot read this page. It is a written message from the King to "Oh Noble People". He goes on to say "I am proud of you" and to say "you are guarantors of the unity of this country". Further on in the body of the text he goes on to say: "Oh brave men of all military sectors and in particular the security men of the Interior Ministry, you are the shield of this country and the striking hand against anyone tempted to undermine its security and stability. May Allah bless you in all your endeavors". Clearly the aim of these actions is to maintain stability.

Elsewhere in this issue there are articles dealing with a lot of the regional conflicts of which we are all aware.
It is always interesting looking at the local point of view.

This cartoon in that issue points out the perceived dual purpose of the conflict in Libya.
Did you notice the Canadian flag on the jet?

So that is a short overview of the happenings in the region from a political perspective - the "political tsunami"
So what of "Mardi Gras" in the title of this Blog episode?
Despite what one sees in the news, life goes on at its usual pace. Expats like ourselves still carry on enjoying life as best we can. A sense of community becomes even more important than at home as we now live in a foreign country with very different customs and lifestyle. As one cannot "go native" one develops a community within a community and strive to make life happen. It is a very different world but clearly one learns that we are a very adaptable species.
Yes "Mardi Gras" did take place, without going to New Orleans, with pot luck Cajun and other delicacies.

                                                            Joy with the other "chefs".

                      Yours truly feeling no pain. Yes with the requisate "Mardi Gras" necklace.

                The skipper with my friend & "mentor"- Jim, who directs operations at the hospital.

                                                       A good time was had by all.
                                   A brief snapshot of life in the Kingdom at this time.
                             Turmoil in the region - yes. Life carrying on as usual - yes.

Next weekend we will be flying back across the Atlantic for the first time since leaving Canada.
Hard to believe its now been six months. Stay tuned for the next set of ramblings.

An Arabian Vegas in a Region of Turmoil

As the flight from Jeddah descends into Dubai, viewing the glistening city lights below, we can forget for a moment that we presently live in a region of turmoil. Tunisia, Libya, Egypt, Jordan, Bahrain, and more recently even Oman, all have experienced uprisings, some completed, others ongoing. Where will things spread? At present however both in the Magic Kingdom as well as the UAE, where Dubai is located, things are peaceful.

We are on a trip to Dubai, for an extended weekend, for the Skipper to attend a medical conference, and the Admiral to kick up her feet. The trip is sponsored by a pharmaceutical firm, so my flight and our hotel, where the conference is held, are provided for. The conference is a Middle East Summit for Hematology & Oncology. I manage to attend some excellent sessions on GIST, NET, m-TOR inhibitors, and bone health & metastases. Fortunately there is also time to see some of the city which I last visited ten years ago after leaving Saudi Arabia during my first tour of duty. The city skyscape has certainly changed rapidly during that decade. Despite the reputed financial problems it clearly is not apparent to these visitors. We are put up in a Hyatt (one of three Hyatts in Dubai) that was not built when I previously visited a decade ago.

Dubai is a city like no other in the world. It started out as a small fishing & pearling village on the sea. It subsequently became a port, where the British established links with the locals to protect their trade routes to India and beyond, during the days of Empire expansion. Then oil was discoverd - the rest is history. Like Vegas it rapidly became a modern decadent & brash city arising from the desert. Like Vegas it is a mecca for those to unload their hard earned cash, but instead of gambling (un Islamic) it became a mega destination for shopping. It also developed abundant numbers of luxury hotels, restaurants, and night life activities. Money, and people with money, flowed in large amounts.

A view of downtown from our hotel window at dawn. The pyramid building on the right is a Raffle's Hotel, imported from the original in Singapore.

Another closer up view (early morning) from our window - the missle or spire shaped building arising above the rest of the downtown skyline is the Burj Khalifa Tower, it is now the tallest building in the world, a kilometre high - the CN tower gives way again. It is a combined office, hotel and apartment complex.

The Burj Khalifa Tower closer up. Very impressive and somewhat surrealistic.

                                               A closer view again.

The base of the Burj Khalifa Tower. Continued development in the area can be seen from the construction cranes off on the left.

We are off to the Dubai Mall, being a city of shopping for the local wealthy, expats and tourists. This is situated close to the base of the Burj Khalifa tower. Malls are not like malls we are used to at home. They are huge, encompass a number of attractions, and fit with the local climate requiring large air conditioned spaces by which to stroll, eat, receive entertainment, and shop.

At the entrance to the Dubai Mall this Bentley is parked - I don't suspect it will get a ticket! Yes Dubai is a testament to money. But Dubai is also different from other countries on the Arabian peninsula, as can be seen from the dress code, which is quite common.

These young ladies on the left, with their short skirts & heels, being a common sight, are in contrast to the more conventional dress of the local woman on the right. Both coexist with acceptance in this Arabian Vegas.

Entering the Dubai Mall - again a liberal view of the dress code. An Arabian Muslim country open to the world.

   Further examples of some of the expat populace strolling in the Dubai Mall.

Now we encounter this "purse" on viewing. Why the glass case, and security (out of view)? This purse, "For Sale", has 381 carats of diamonds attached to it and is valued at $3.8 million US! I am sure someone will buy it, but certainly not common unwashed plebians like ourselves.

No this is not a mistake and given you a shot from a SCUBA dive. This is a view of the Dubai Aquarium which is housed in the Dubai Mall. The old Gold Souk has also been enveloped by this mall. Remember malls here do not necessarily fit with your image of a mall at home.

The Dubai Aquarium within the mall. You can pay to "go inside" and walk through a clear glass tunnel which runs through it such that you can be surrounded 360 degrees by swimming fish. A SCUBA diver goes in each day to supply food for the larger predators such as the sharks swimming there - I guess so they don't turn their attention to the many smaller fish.

In the opposite direction for attractions the mall also houses an ice rink - here they are playing ice hockey. Will we see the Emirates at a Hockey World Cup one day?

After this visit we decide to visit another mall, the Mall of the Emirates, a fifteen minute taxi ride away, as it houses an attraction I am curious to view.

This is not what I was expecting - this was at one of the exits to the Mall of the Emirates, close to a taxi stand. Again unlikely these will be ticketed or towed. This silver grey Lamborghini, has parked behind it a Toyota 4X4 (likely an expat's), another Lamborghini(white), followed by another Bentley, a Porsche Cayenne, then an Audi R8. Yes Yorkville in Toronto would be put to shame.

As noted, the Mall of the Emirates. Malls, love them or hate them, but in this part of the world essential if one is to get out and about with the temperatures in excess of 40 deg C, with humidity and endless sunshine much of the year. They become cities within a city.

Another view of a portion of the Mall of the Emirates. As noted earlier they are huge, where one could walk much of the day if one wishes.

                Oh, have we relocated for springtime in the mountains?

In the "Aspen Bakery". Yes within the Mall of the Emirates - as noted not a standard mall in design or function. A place not just to shop.

Another corner in this part of the Mall. The roaring fire - and through the window on the right is that winter? Does it look like a ski resort? Have a look at the posters surrounding the fire. Remember this could take place when it is 50 deg C outside.

Now remember we are located on a flat sandy desert by the edge of the sea. We are also in a Mall. But this is Dubai where many things are possible. They in fact have built an indoor air conditioned ski hill, with artificial snow falling, and have called it Ski Dubai. This is not the Alps but as big a hill as one has in London.

Hard to believe we are in a desert country. That is a chair lift on the left. The skiers are coming down the slope on the right side of the picture. And yes it is snowing!

The kids are having fun - not a country where snow outfits are normally seen.

We are now off to another part of Dubai, to the Jumeirah Beach region - a different flavor. The city is an ocean city and much of its attraction also lies with the coastal outdoor attractions. One of its major international landmarks also lies in this region.

Off to the left of the picture is a side view of the Jumeirah Beach hotel, one of the original five star hotels built on this stretch of beach. It is shaped like a wave from the front. My son Michael and I stayed there over a decade ago - beautiful hotel. Next to it is a wonderful water park, fun for kids and adults who think they are still kids. However on the right side, on its own small man made peninsula, is the Burj al-Arab hotel, an international landmark for Dubai. This is reputed to be the only seven star hotel in the world. If you have to ask the price you can't afford it - although I understand that if you can drop about $5k a night you might get a room! You cannot visit it unless you have a room or a dinner reservation. There is a helicopter pad on its roof in case you want to come in unseen. You get your own private butler and access to a Rolls Royce for your excursions. Another face of Dubai.

Jumeirah Beach - not sure why he is carrying a surfboard as there is no surf?

In this location they have also developed a shoreside facility, coined Jumeirah Souk, but far from the original concept of a souk. Yes there is a modern part to look like an old souk, but then there canals (Venice like?), apartments, restaurants, night clubs, more stores, etc by the shore. Actually the area was quite pleasant and relaxing, more laid back, a different feel from the city itself.

      A modern structure to look like an old souk - a nod to history?

Moving outside in the Jumeirah Souk development. Again the modern structures to "look original", a contrast to so much of the rest of the city with its modern architecture.

                              The "Venice like" part of the development.

The area is lined with walkways, retail outlets, cafes, nightspots and some small watercraft for "canal touring".

                                         Maybe an Arabian Venice?

                             As night comes, this tranquil area comes alive.

Joy, her sister Brenda(who she hasn't seen for years), and the skipper partake in a little food and libation at one of the "canal side" establishments. There is good food, appropriate libation, a bar, a live band and small dance floor. A fitting way to celebrate life.

Fireworks over the water. The end of an evening out and an end to this episode.

Dubai, love it or hate it, has been an experiment of sorts of what happens when wealthy Arabia is open to the west. This episode has only touched on what constitutes Dubai, but hopefully it has portrayed an image which can open one's perception of the different kinds of life and living that can take place in this part of the world. The images through the media only tell part of the story of life in the Middle East, and often a distorted story. Clearly this Arabian Vegas is unique, as is the Vegas people at home are familiar. In a three hour flight we would be back in Jeddah, a very different world. Stay tuned for our next adventure.