Where's Walden?: January 2012

The trip was to be different - but like many times in life things don't always go according to plan. Any traveller knows that, so we carried on with plan B.

The original plan was for the skipper to go ahead to Dubai the day before my son Mike was to arrive, so like a good dad I could meet him at the airport. However due to the ongoing political wrangling between our progressive government and that of the UAE (where Dubai is situated) Mike's visa was processed at a snail's pace and it did not arrive until the week following our return to the Magic Kingdom. Playing politely in the sandbox together has not been learned by governments - but what else is new? Very disappointing for all involved. Needless to say after much hand wringing his flight was cancelled and it was up to the Admiral and myself to enjoy the sunshine by ourselves.

Yes we visited Dubai on an earlier Blog last year, but this time we could enjoy what it had to offer at a more leisurely pace. The sunshine was nice, although we admit having the white stuff over the Xmas & New Year period sets the mood in a different way. At any rate it was a great excuse to exit the Magic Kingdom, even if for a short time, as Xmas is not only not recognised there but public decorations are banned - un Islamic. However the UAE, although just next door on the Arabian peninsula, things are much more liberal with decorations and events of the season abundant.

Dubai is a city of excesses. An "Arabian Vegas" on an earlier Blog.
The last fifty years has seen it blossom from a small trading,fishing, & pearling village to a modern city with claims of the tallest building in the world, the largest shopping mall in the world, the world's only seven star hotel (where if you ask the price you can't afford it), etc etc. As a result of such rapid growth it now also owns one of the largest debts of any city in the world, a reward for its too rapid need for expansion.
But it wasn't always so, and we will start with that.

The Dubai Museum was an interesting place to visit giving an insight into the city's past that is rarely appreciated by visitors. It is situated in part of the "old town" (Bur Dubai) which is fitting. Apparently there were settlements in this area from about 2000 BC, which is not entirely surprising with it's maritime/port location and the ancient civilizations of Egypt and Babylon not far away. However as noted as recent as the 1950's it was still a small trading, fishing and pearling settlement on one bank of the mouth of the Dubai "creek", an inlet and natural harbor to the sea.

An image of the small port town near the mouth of the "creek"in the early 1900's. The museum is in that location, being in an old fort.

Maritime vessels used until well into the 1900's, until oil was discovered.

Life until well into the 1900's was of a different era. The last image of this set shows a "wind tower" which was open on four sides, and vented the wind into the building - an early "green" form of air conditioning.

From the mid nineteen fifties onwards, after the discovery of oil, things started to change rapidly, with the now newer "old town" spreading to both banks of the creek.

A view in the fore ground of the "new old town" (Deira) with the modern city behind - the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world can be seen in the background.

Wandering the streets and alleys of this "older" Deira district was fascinating. The inhabitants were mainly people from the Indian sub continent and other third world countries, the workers in the day to day economy of much of the middle east. Many of their salaries by our standards are pitiful but they manage to live and send money home.

Buried in this complex of streets are some interesting souks (or markets) this being the spice souk - the lower image advertises "natural viagra" - I don't wish to guess the contents.

Then of course there is the Gold Souk. Being Dubai it is claimed to be the largest collection of gold merchandise in the world. This long alleyway is lined with many many merchants.

Images of the Gold Souk. The lowest image shows what is apparently the largest gold ring in the world (about 70 kg of gold) - the woman's outfit is also made of knit gold - any buyers?

Eventually we make it to the "creek", the shores on which Dubai developed.
There are still many Dhows (boats) still trading with India, Iran, and East Africa, although gone are the days of sail, all now with "iron jibs" (motors).
However the best entertainment value was crossing the creek on a small water taxi, about 25 cents in cost - some things here are still inexpensive, but not many.

From the Deira side of the creek we get back to Bur Dubai, the original settlement.

On reaching the Bur Dubai side there are more souks, the historical buildings but also the image on the bottom of what is happening in this city of rapid excesses. This is an image of a residential tower or hotel that has had construction stopped - money running dry and debt becoming a significant problem with the rapid expansion of this modern city. Vacancies and residential prices have dropped with the changes in the recent global economy.

At this juncture, and before further exploring the modern city that most people visiting as tourists see, we need to be reminded that although a maritime city it sits at the edge of a desert, in fact the edge of the "empty quarter", a very large expanse of endless sand dunes.

The ancient, old and new "ships of the desert" - we won't say which by timeline. The bedu for centuries traversed these desolate sands on camel but today they use the modern conveniences of air conditioned 4WD's.

Images of the guided trek into a reserve area abutting onto the "empty quarter", the endless sea of sand that goes on for hundreds of miles. We only visited its edge. The driver in the bottom image is adjusting the air in the tires. Air is let out to make the tires softer for driving in the sand. Before returning to the main road they have to be reinflated. Driving in these dunes with their soft sand is an art - there were several times going up the side of a large dune that I felt as if the vehicle was on the edge of flipping - but it didn't. The desert is an incredible sea of sand, with its sense of peace, solitude and quietness - the same sense of quiet and stillness that was last experienced in the desert outside of Jeddah, and previously when walking on the desert shores while sailing the Sea of Cortez in Mexico - magical.

We eventually returned to the city - a drastic contrast to the desert. The highways are modern and efficient. Seen in this image from the car is part of the modern monorail track that connects many parts of the city. It is time to venture into the modern city, the one most tourists see, where they come to enjoy the many luxury hotels, restaurants, nightclubs, abundant shopping malls, beaches, golf courses and aquatic pursuits. Some will venture further afield.

A view from the end of the "Palm" of what many see as icons of modern Dubai - in the distance on shore on the right is the Burj al Arab, the world's only 7 star hotel (for now), and through the mist on the left the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world (also for now).

Attached to the Burj Khalifa complex is arguably the worlds largest shopping mall (and entertainment complex), two luxury hotels, a large water feature and expensive condominium/apartments.

Images of the large complex incorporating the Burj Khalifa and the Dubai Shopping Mall. However we should remember that we came here for the holiday season, as it is evident unlike in the Magic Kingdom.

At one of the ice rinks, yes even in this desert city, there was a Christmas skating show with a number of children involved. This was set to Christmas carols and classical music.

As we came here for the holiday season we treated ourselves to a couple of days at the Atlantis Hotel, which was built at the end of the "Palm", a man made series of arms into the sea in the shape of a "palm tree". An amazing, and very expensive development in reclaiming so much land from the sea.

Although Mike was unable to join us we managed to catch up with Joy's sister Brenda and niece Casey to join us for some of our holiday season time. Atlantis is set up for aquatic fun, similar to the original Atlantis.

One of the newest areas in Dubai is the Marina Development.

In some ways it is the closest thing in this part of the world to the feel of South Beach in Miami, although an Arabian version. There was also a surprise there for us Canuks.

The skipper surveying the fleet - despite the UAE being a stopover for this years around the world Volvo sailboat race there were no sailboats in this marina. I am sure these powerboats were air conditioned.

We subsequently took in New Year's Eve by watching the fireworks at the Burj Khalifa - getting there was not easy with all the traffic, taking in a dinner earlier in the evening.