Saturday, December 25, 2010

Doha & Other Christmas Ramblings

Why Doha and where is Doha you might ask?
Well my friends the world is a big place with many undiscovered adventures to be found.
Before the skipper goes on, lets first have a brief discourse on the Arabian Peninsular and the Gulf in particular. This hopefully will put things into perspective. The largest country on the Arabian Peninsular is Saudi Arabia - a petro dollar rich country that has a conservative Islamic culture (although Jeddah is relatively the most liberal of its cities). Yemen on the other hand is the poor cousin on the peninsular, known for a different reputation in the west. The country of Oman is a relatively late bloomer but with many positive attributes - more on that in a later Blog. Then there are the Gulf States, those bordering Saudi Arabia but situated on the Arabian Gulf - separated by water from Iran, but as different as black & white.
The Gulf States include Bahrain, Qatar (where Doha is the capital, now you know where it is), and the UAE or the Emirates (where Abu Dhabi & Dubai are located, both better known in the west).
Qatar started out, as did Saudi Arabia, with the strict Wahabi Islamic culture - but things have changed. While retaining strong traditional links to the past it has also decided to open up to the world as a modern international centre,  both for pleasure and for business. Doha is its capital and is the up and coming star of the region. It was the location of the 2006 Asian Games and has just been awarded the FIFA World Cup for 2022. It has hosted auto Grand Prix and sailing regattas. Bryan Adams had a concert there the weekend before we arrived.  Look out Dubai for some serious competition. Now you know why we wanted to have a "look see" for our first weekend break away from the Kingdom (a two hour flight from Jeddah) and just before Christmas - returning back to Jeddah on Christmas Eve.
We decided to stay at the Sheraton Doha as a Christmas present to ourselves. The Sheraton was the first 5 star hotel built in Doha, opening in 1982, and has become a landmark on the skyline at the end of the beautiful corniche. It was early in the building boom which continues in a frenzy today building a modern Arabian city on the edge of the desert fronting the sea shore.


It was night when we arrived - the lights around the palm trees in front of the hotel were duplicated along the drive into the city by the corniche - very seasonal.

After dropping off our bags in the room we headed to the Irish Pub on the ground floor of the hotel. A nice live band from England, a dance floor, tables, and stand up bar - made the two hour flight very worthwhile! The guitarist reminded us a lot of our friend Gary.
The skipper had his first Guiness since leaving home, and the Admiral with a glass of merlot ............ Let's say there were several glasses that night - with the night cap in the disco upstairs to view another population - a very eclectic crowd there, all expats from various parts of the globe.
A view from our balcony, looking North, the next morning, enjoying our first coffee of the day. The grounds were very lush, with many birds flying around.

A telephoto shot from the previous view showing a marina - mostly power boats but some masts to be seen. During the day we only saw power boats going out although we understand there are sailboat races many weekends.

A view straight out of the balcony, with a private beach to the left and pool to the right. Beyond the horizon is Iran - a very different world.

The next morning we go for a stroll - temps pleasant in low to mid 20's C. This view is leaving the front entrance of the Sheraton. As can be seen a local landmark - opened in 1982.

Heading out the front entrance of the hotel one gets a glimpse of the modern city unfolding ahead - a modern Arabian city. The architecture is just amazing, compared to the many "boxes" or "vertical rectangles" that one sees today in many cities.

Strolling towards the entrance of the corniche that runs along the waterfront. The city rising on the right, the ocean with its walkway, bike & jogging paths on the left.

              A photo op for the Admiral with some of the city scape behind.
A round about in the road - maybe a reflection of the British influence from their earlier historic ties to the Gulf region. Those are pink flowers planted in the middle.

         A sculpture of an Arabian coffee pot at one of the round abouts.
Discovered a small museum on the waterfront dealing with the history and development of the area - very interesting old photos as well - hard to believe what Doha looked like in the 1950's. A reflection of the massive modernization of the region, as can be seen through this window in the museum where ongoing construction can be seen.
Another view from the waterfront museum. The orientalist view of the desert Arab has been religated to history as the air conditioned urban approach has become the new reality.
Along the corniche - the Dhow (boat) you see, being driven by motor power, has replaced the elegant Dhows of old with their billowing lanteen sails.

We decide to hitch a ride, for about $5, guess business is slow. Although motor powered as you can see the skipper still steers by a tiller not a wheel. Joy is "enjoying" the cooler breeze off the water.

                                         Nice to just enjoy the ride.
A sister Dhow - I understand some still trade & fish although most likely cater to the tourist trade. In the distant pages of history sailing Dhows took Arab seamen from Arabia down the coast of Africa, to India, and the Far east as far as China - these voyages led to the Sinbad legends.
                                            Yes times are changing      The Dhow will soon disappear with the new Arabia blossoming behind.
Our stroll along the corniche is ending as we head back to the hotel, seen here on the waterfront.

Another popular past time of the modern Arabian culture is shopping. This is a view of the City Centre mall, a very large mall with five stories of shopping, complete with cinemas and as can be seen here an indoor skating rink (seen at the bottom of the picture). We did a little Christmas perusing here, as the mall was decorated for Christmas.
Another approach to shopping, and much more interesting. The old Souq Waqif which had started falling into ruins, until several years ago when the city restored it back to its original state. Now a bustling place with its many narrow alleyways. This is one of the entrances which we entered early in the evening - yet more strolling! As noted ealier the locals appear to respect their history as well as to embrace the modern. As with many activities in this part of the world, when it is often hot during the day, things get busy in the evening - here we are early.

              Strolling the narrow passages looking at the many wares.
                                 More and more passageways to explore.
Exiting the myriad of passageways to the open plaza and street (closed to car traffic). Note the old restored buildings.

The plaza next to the Souk, where there are numerous restaurants and coffee houses - beginning to get busy
             We finally stop for dinner at a Malaysian restaurant in the plaza.
      After dinner we watch this man make custom bracelets in the plaza.
             Men smoking Shisha - a common pastime in the middle east.
              A coffee shop in the plaza - Second Cup - any similarities?
At this point it is time to return to the hotel - but what of Christmas, as this was a combined first foray out of the Kingdom, even for a weekend, as well as a Christmas trip for us.

Yes the hotel is decorated for Christmas. Although a Muslim country, and based originally on the Wahabi tradition, there is acceptance of other traditions.

The entrance to the breakfast area - note the modern Arabian motif mixed with the Christmas decorations.

More Christmas decorations in the hotel lobby - note the replica of an Arab Dhow in the middle of the picture, mixed with the other seasonal items.
Finally to sit down, have some coffee & dessert - the night cap will come later.

We are also entertained by hotel staff singing Christmas carols in the lobby.

            Yes my friends Santa Claus does come to the Middle East.

The next day, Christmas Eve, we return to Jeddah. It is difficult returning as Christmas is not recognized in Saudi Arabia,being just another work day. Our memories of this trip to Doha however will always bring back fond memories.
Christmas is a time for family and friends, and that we greatly miss. However we have had the good fortune of having Jim & Kelly very kindly ask us over for Christmas dinner. Merry Christmas to all, both close and far away.

No comments:

Post a Comment