It was a direct flight from Jeddah to Beirut, two & half hours, and a different world again. Another weekend escape, a celebration of life, having just past the skipper's 64th birthday. As the plane hit the runway one considered the contradictions inherent in this country of Lebanon. Historically this was part of the Levant, a region encompassing the Eastern shores of the Mediterranean. Beirut, the capital of Lebanon, is truly a Mediterranean city, part of the Middle East, but with both an Arab and European history and influence. The taxi driver that took us to our hotel could have spoken English, Arabic as well as French, but that is getting ahead of ourselves.
Beirut is an ancient city, being first mentioned by the ancient Egyptions about 1500 B.C. The coast of Lebanon itself was in those days the land of the Phoenicians, a great maritime trading culture. They continued with their great seafaring activities for over a thousand years, until Alexander the Great carried out a bloody conquest of this region on his way to expanding his empire. During biblical times this was the land of the Canaanites. Subsequently the Greeks, the Romans, the Crusaders (with their wars fighting Muslims in the Holy Land), the Ottomans(from Turkey), and the French all had their turns at influence and occupation until the recent independence came in 1943 during the second world war. In the 1960's Beirut achieved the label of the "Paris of the East". Then in the 1970's the civil war started, lasting for over a decade, resulting in much destruction & turmoil. It was only well into the 1990"s that significant rebuilding started taking place. Despite this it is still a city of contradictions with the impoverished Palestinian refugee regions, the Hezbollah and the poor in the south reaching to the border of Israel, in contrast to the many expensive housing projects, particularly by the sea, and its reputation for its myriads of restaurants, cafes, bars, and bustling extravagent nightlife.
Our hotel was in the Hamra district of Beirut, an older but fairly central part of the city. After checking in Jim, Joy and myself went walking in the neighborhood passing many bars, cafes & restaurants until we found a sidewalk French Cafe, that interestingly specialized in pasta. However the food was great and the wine went down well! No diets on this trip. After a late night we were up early to go exploring - no rest on this trip.
The view from our hotel room in the Hamra District of Beirut. At the far end of the picture one can just see the blue of the Mediterranean sea.
Out on Hamra Street. Looking for coffee.
Although Turkish coffee is historically popular, standard chains are everywhere. No complaints here.
Continued street meanderings. A cross between an Arabic & European Mediterranean city.
Cutting down a back street on our way toward the sea and the American University of Beirut.
A typical older shuttered home seen on our stroll. As one gets closer to the water more of these are being torn down to make way for more "modern", and expensive, apartments and condos.
A student area as we approach the American University of Beirut, the building seen on the left, across the street, is an entrance.
The entrance to the University. This is one of the premier institutions in the region.
After what the citizens have gone through, and continue to endure, higher education is seen as a means to a better future. However many graduates move overseas for their employment creating a brain drain. Yes Lebanese professionals are seen working worldwide.
Part of the central campus of the American University of Beirut.
The campus runs down to the Mediterranean. Tough location!!
We reach the shores of the Mediterranean. This is its most eastern location, looking west. This view is from the corniche that runs along the waterfront of Beirut. The horizon beckons, as it has done for thousands of years.
The skipper, Jim and Tord decide on our route - lots of walking this day. Beautiful weather.
The corniche and rocky shoreline. Many new apartment condos are being built along the waterfront - at great cost! The rich citizens here live a very different life from the displaced Palestinians for example.
New construction near the waterfront in contrast to the fishermen.
A lone fisherman carrying out an activity for the ages. Yes I saw him catch a reasonable sized fish.
The modern generation use the sea side in other ways - beaches are elsewhere on the coast. This is next to the corniche.
A telephoto lens does wonders - these guys are smoking shischa, very popular in the Middle East, by the sea shore. They will likely be out at the night clubs after dark.
Pigeons' Rocks - a famous landmark on the Beirut waterfront.
Time for lunch by the sea - not bad slumming. All the food we had in Lebanon was good. The cold beer also went well with lunch after all that walking in the sun.
The Mediterranean relaxed lunch prevails - even the women here take time for their shischa.
Time to continue our walkabout. This statue has bullet holes in it from the civil war (may have to enlarge the picture to see them well). There is also a Holiday Inn close by to this site which underwent extensive damage from the war and has been left to stand despite the years that have passed - a modern monument to chaos??
An image to history. This mosque (Muslim), church (Christian), side by side had their origins nearly a thousand years ago, dating around the time of the crusades. In Lebanon many faiths are practiced including Muslim, Christian and Judaism. In the foreground are Roman ruins from their time of occupation two thousand years ago.
Further evidence of Roman ruins with the city growing up around this preserved site. These were Roman Baths.
Renovations of the older buildings here insstead of demolition and rebuilding. Great place to walk.
In this renovated area, close to government buildings, they have closed off the streets to allow open pedestrian walking and restaurants in the street. During the day it is quiet but I am sure when the sun goes down it becomes lively as does much of the city.
It is now time to take a trip out of Beirut. We hired a driver the second day to take the five of us North to the city outskirts and beyond for a day trip.
Just North of Beirut we take the cable car up to the mountain top (mountains run up the coast) at Jounien to the mountaintop Basilica of Our Lady of Lebanon. The view is spectacular.
The last part of the ascent is via a tram car - much like going up the mountains in the Alps.
The view from the top. The patio below to where I am required climbing stairs to the final platform. Although Beirut proper has ended, the cityscape seen below is part of urban sprawl going up the coast.
Oh did I mention that I am scared of heights - a swinging gondola dosn't help that situation!
Finally coming down (a view from the gondola) - the highway below runs up the coast, and will be our route for going further North to the ancient seaside town of Byblos.
Byblos, our next destination, was the biblical Gebal. The town site apparently had initially been inhabited 7000 years ago, and had become an important Phoenician port town about 3500 years ago.
Of note Carthage in North Africa was also a Phoenician settlement initially. As with many places in the region it was subsequently inhabited by ancient Greeks, Romans, Crusaders, and Ottomans. The evidence for some of this is still present and excavations are continuing. At present it is a very pretty still somewhat laid back old port town - at least the old part which we were to visit.
Our driver dropped us off, and we walked through the old town of Byblos. The wall on the right likely originated from the time of the crusaders.
The boat ramp into the small harbor at Byblos. The building in the center background houses the "Byblos Fishing Club" where we ate a wonderful sea food lunch. Eating good food is easy here. The Crusader's Castle can also be seen in the background just right of center.
The entrance to the restaurant at least has a nautical theme - nice for the skipper & admiral.
A lunch worthy of Neptune's table. The restaurant has its own fishing boats and catch their own seafood. The diners go to the back and pick which of the catch you wish, then "voila" they cook it and serve it. This along with some Lebanese appetizers & salad & cold beer - no rush, just enjoy, with a view from this open air restaurant overlooking the harbor.
A view of the Medieval Harbor from our restaurant table. Hard to believe such an important harbor town in history was so smaall.
Fishing boats in the harbor. Note the Mediterranean mooring.
Steps up to the Crusadrer's Castle. Subsequently used by the Ottomans.
Entering the castle - relatively good condition considering it was built around 1100AD.
Medieval castles are fascinating places.
A view from the top of the castle, looking out at the Mediterranean, and the Roman ruins in the foreground. Roman pillars can still be seen standing. Apparently this was a large Roman outpost town in its day.
Unfortunately the builders of this Medieval Crusaders Castle scavanged many parts from the old Roman town. You can see that in building the castle they cut up Roman columns to help with the construction of the castle wall.
Fortunately a part of this Roman amphitheatre remains. The stage is in front with a back drop of the Mediterranean - spectacular.
A once majestic site left to the march of time. Apparently there was a collonade of pillars.
Yes it was a great trip. A beach on the coast can be seen in the background to the left side of the picture. This caters to the hotels and people on day trips to the "new" town of Byblos. The "old town" however was much better for us.
Unfortunately it is now time to go home.
This is Jeddah from our arrival flight at night - in the morning it's off to work again. Next week, assuming the ash from the recent volcano eruption in Eritrea doesn't ground us, we will be off to the other end of the Mediterranean.
Stay tuned.
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