Yes we picked a time of year when Europeans tend to take summer holidays so we expected it to be crowded, but not expecting the unexpected heat wave this part of the world was enduring. Fortunately not the degree of humidity with the heat that we were experiencing on the shores of the Red Sea, so a "pleasant" escape - "temperature" being relative.
The coast of Croatia is rocky, with many islands, making it a destination for many sailors - but not us this time, this being a land based holiday. Considering the size of the Mediterranean, the Greek islands, and those off Croatia, are the only two locations with numerous island groups. But I understand from Captain Bob, who has just recently departed these waters on his sailing vessel, that the holding (for anchoring) is not great in this region, being a rocky bottom. We based ourselves in Dubrovnic, doing some day trips by boat as well as by bus, which will be topics of Blogs to follow.
Dubrovnic is not an ancient city by the standards of this part of the world, although of enough historical significance, and being a well preserved walled city, to be a UNESCO world heritage site. The more recent damage inflicted by the relatively recent war (this being part of the breakup of old Yugoslavia) is not evident after appropriate repairs had been carried out.
Grapes growing over the ceiling of this shaded café on top of the perimeter wall of the old city. Wineries are located inland, in higher elevations, making some very pleasant wines. Ancient trade in the Med carried wine & olive oil as important staples. It is said that the first wine to be drunk in Burgundy, France, was imported from Greece (the French I am sure would disagree).
The sea is clearly an important part of the charm, and economy, of this part of the world, going back to the days of ancient history.
Today recreational, as well as commercial, boats of all varieties ply these waters.
The Maritime Museum in the old town was an interesting and worthwhile visit. Although one thinks of wind powering ships of old, it was an interesting reminder that the winds during the summer can be light, and that oar power, usually produced through the efforts of chained slaves, moved these vessels for trade and war.
Model of an early sailing vessel clearly with a Middle Eastern influence with its sailing rig.
Then the modern tourist/commercial vessels plying these waters.
Then those vessels of the rich, seen in great abundance here.
Unfortunately, for us anyways, this has also become a popular cruise ship stopover. Why "unfortunate"?
Cruise ships ok.
Once upon a time there would be a few hundred passengers.
Now many of the cruise ships have multiple layers of cabins, with guests in the thousands - not ok.
As the masses disgorge onto the local sites, watching them in some ways being herded like cattle, or perhaps like trying to herd cats, by their guides, crowding out the destination for the few hours of shore time, then rushed away again - well you get the picture.
A mixed blessing for the locals - economy versus crowds.
Being "guided" in herds. "Time" to take in the atmosphere??
At these moments we would attempt to seek out quieter spots, walking the walls & small side streets, guiding ourselves at our own pace.
Yes time for lunch, noting pizza (and pasta) being popular, as this coastline sits opposite Italy on the other side of the Adriatic.
And yes in addition to a cold beer we ordered "pepperoni" in addition to the basic tomato, cheese & mushrooms. Is that not a basic ingredient for which we have become accustomed?
Well travelling to foreign lands does sometimes lead to challenges in interpretation.
Instead we got the basic ingredients but with the addition of hot peppers!
We discovered that if we wanted something resembling "pepperoni" as we expect, that you ask for "salami". Lost in translation?
It still went down well with a cold beer.
The waiter felt so badly about the "mistake" that he brought us a dessert on the house, a delicious chocolate/orange cake. Although some have said that the people here are not that friendly we found that that was the exception, as the kindness of this waiter demonstrated. On paying the bill I had mixed in a Euro note instead of their local money - he came back just as we were leaving pointing out my mistake - he could have taken it, being worth more, but showed his honesty.
The evenings by the water were beautiful, either staying before going back to our hotel, or strolling back in the evening - fortunately by then the cruise ship passengers had left.
The timing of this trip fit between two important dates - our wedding anniversary (11 years!) and the Admiral's birthday (age unknown).
A seafood buffet, cooked after we pointed out our choices, with a pleasant singer in the background, and a good bottle of local wine went down well.
Seafood is abundant here and the local wine surprisingly good (not unexpected being the same latitude and climate as Italy across the water).
Dubrovnic was an interesting site to visit, despite the crowds at times.
As noted earlier we used our hotel there as a base for some day trips out of the city environs, both by water and by bus - the following Blogs will cover those aspects.
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